The new rules of power dressing: Does your wardrobe match up?

Who’s the boss? These days, it’s getting harder to tell. Content creators with 2 million followers do not wear pantsuits. They’re in coordinated hoodies and track pants, flashing not-yet-released sneakers that they’ll eventually pass on to lucky fans. Being a judge on MasterChef means wearing something feminine, so as to avoid the harsh lines of the chef’s whites, but not too girly. Start-up founders pair jumpsuits with stilettos. Even the little black dress is more Wednesday Addams than Audrey Hepburn. Is anyone still rocking dainty pendants?

New ruling classes have their own uniforms. Power wielders and stylists weigh in on the new markers of influence and authority, and how not to look like your own underling.

That’s so me

Some of the old guard is still around: The pinstriped A-line skirt, the silk sari. But 28-year-old food entrepreneur Tasheen Rahimtoola’s closet now also includes boho tulle skirts. And she’ll comfortably wear a blazer with shorts, something her stylish mother, Azmina Rahimtoola, would never have. Rahimtoola says it gives her “the power to go to work and also go out without feeling too dressed up”.

She deals with clients across a range of age groups in the hospitality business. So, denim dungarees with a crop top are also part of the work wardrobe. “If it’s not vibing, I won’t wear it,” she says.

Stretching it

One would think, Neha Motwani, 37, who started Fitterfly, a health-tech startup, would wear athleisure to work. She doesn’t. She loves solid pieces— a dress or straight pants, paired with a bold jacket. “The pressure to exude confidence and look appealing can be overwhelming,” she says. “But I just wear what I am comfortable in, somethign that takes me from work meetings to awards nights.”

Glammed-up gym wear is showing up at cool workplaces, nonetheless. Karuna Laungani, co-founder of the handcrafted fashion and lifestyle brand, Jodi, has also worked as a stylist. She believes that sportswear is no longer just for the gym. Athleisure is comfortable and stylish enough wear to a casual meeting too. “I like to mix comfort pieces with a statement piece to look put-together,” she says.

Laungani recommends wearing a fitted bodysuit under an oversized blazer, or a utility jacket paired with track pants and sneakers. “Pair dressed up sweats with heels, why not?” she says. “I also love referencing the ‘80s – a crop top and matching leggings with a bomber jacket.”

Tweaking the recipe

Michelin star chef Garima Arora decided not to wear the white uniform for her role as a judge on the TV show MasterChef India. And she was determined not to go over the top with make-up and jewellery, as women on screen tend to do. Tone down the extras, she told her team. She started out with pantsuits, but as her pregnancy advanced, she moved on to tailored dresses, with high necklines, defined shoulders, solid hues and soft embroidery.

“I don’t wear dresses usually, but the team did a good job in creating looks that respect the hard work and professionalism of the kitchen and at the same time be appropriate for television,” says Arora who worked with costume designer Harshal Naik and stylist Reema Linet D’Souza.

Formal formats

For corporate events and board meetings, Rahimtoola avoids black, blue and khaki. She wears structured outfits in bold colours such as purple, pink and neon instead. She pairs a skirt suit or tailored flared trousers with a crisp blouse, heels and statement earrings. “A look like this brings out femininity and personality,” she says. “I love headgear: Hairbands and hairpieces from Outhouse, Meesho or Stackables by Nisha J.” Eclectic jewellery and accessories liven up an otherwise plain garment. “Try pairing an A-line navy blue dress with rani pink heels and bag for some drama.”

Office meetings tend to drag out. So Motwani prefers business casuals over strict formal suits or dresses. “As startup entrepreneurs, we end up creating our own identity and work culture, so I haven’t felt uncomfortable in a room full of serious dressers. In fact, it feels great to be dressed in my startup clothes,” she says.

Secure footing

Young power dressers love sustainable brands. Veja, a french footwear brand that uses recycled plastic bottles, rice waste and sugarcane to make its sneakers, now also retails in India. It’s a favourite among the creative crowd and influencers on the fringe. “Their styles are contemporary and versatile and can be worn with almost anything,” says Laungani.

Heels and platform soles remain the short-cut to appearing powerful. “A high heel changes the wearer’s posture, instils confidence and helps showcase a strong personality in a room full of people,” says Rahimtoola. She likes Valentino pumps and Dior slingbacks. “I also experiment with brands such as Cult Gaia and Bottega Veneta.”

Arora doesn’t care for heels. Chefs rarely wear them. “That’s why you see me in sneakers and flats—it makes me feel more mobile, agile, more like myself.”

Motwani prefers footwear “that I could walk for two kilometres in” and wears sneakers and wedge heels. For a more stylish event, she wears kitten heels and comfortable stilettos.

Forget style. Just be you

Rahimtoola believes that not every trend works for everyone. “Don’t hoard wedge-heels because everyone has them. Don’t dress in fuschia just because every brand is producing lines in that colour,” she says. “Fashion trends come and go. Figure out which of them reflects you.”

No matter what you wear, make sure it fits well, says stylist Sheefa Gilani. Poor tailoring and ensembles that are out of sync with the occasion detract from power, rather than add to it. “When planning an outfit, consider the overall aesthetic, balance, and proportion of the colours and patterns,” she advises.

From HT Brunch, May 13, 2023

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