From An Italian Ruin, Palazzo Ducale Venturi Is Restored To 21st Century Romanic Elegance
Counting the angels on the head of a pin would be child’s play compared to estimating all of the antique palazzos throughout Italy. Even the poorest district seems once to have a rich man on the hillside who was able to cobble together the resources (and taxes) to create a fairly safe and secure stone mansion, while the richest brandished their wealth and power in astonishments like the Villa d’Este in Tivoli and the Palazzo Reale in Naples.
Far from the big cities, many palazzos were often summer residences that became the focal point for the town’s identity. Centuries of being taken over by invaders, disastrous economic downturns and social upheavals—not least two World Wars in the last century—forced the abandonment of many that thereupon went to wrack and ruin. One of these is the Palazzo Ducale Venturi in the small Puglian town of Minervino di Lecce. Though isolated, the town is only 25 miles from Lecce and 15 minutes from Otranto.
There’s little to see in the town beyond the various churches (some shuttered), and the façade of the Palazzo, built in 1500 as a Templar stronghold, is not promising, looking somewhat like the Alamo after the Mexican Army stormed it. But once through a creaking, old green wooden door, an entirely different world of Italian luxury expands from a foyer to a grand living room to a garden and pool and a modern spa called the Wellness Area.
I doubt the Duke Venturi lived in anything close to the comfort guests can now enjoy, with 20 rooms and suites, some of which have ancient murals on vaulted ceilings. The local limestone was restored to a pale golden glow, and the fireplaces re-lighted, including a wood-fired pizza oven and a cozy whiskey bar where a course and, afterwards, dinner may be taken.
There is a bittersweet legend that involves the Palazzo, which once had a secret underground passageway to the nearby Monastery where the Duke would liaison with the Abbess. But, alas, after a few years, he tired of her and took up with a young novice nun whom the Abbess, in a fit of jealous rage, had murdered and buried in an underground vault, putting a curse on the duke’s bedroom—Hic amor mori: “Here love died”—which was fortunately lifted by Saint Eligio later in the 16th century. The once walled-up room is, romantically, again available to stay in.
When my wife and I stayed at the Palazzo last autumn, we were struck by the cool quiet of the hotel, which extends to the Wellness Area with its serene spa, the beautiful garden with its entwined arbors and the remarkably large, underlighted pool area. It is all as enchanting at night as it is during the day, and moonlight works its wonderful ministry on the walls and water.
Rooms are capacious, with arched limestone ceilings and painted walls, the furniture is tones of gray and taupe. Bathrooms are large and very modern, the WiFi connection is exemplary (though I found that T-Mobile has no coverage in the region, a lack easily fixed by buying a SIM card for a few bucks). The furnishings of the public rooms, which are painted off-white and reflect a great deal of light from floor-to-ceiling windows, are judiciously set with first-quality antiques rather than crammed with artwork of questionable provenance. A motif of soothing, muted green is used throughout on the woodwork.
The intimate dining room with ceiling mural, appended with outdoor tables that allow you dine in the garden or by the pool, is where we had our extensive breakfasts (included in the room price), which ranged from breads and pastries to pancakes and cheeses, fruits and juices all served at a long, well-set table with local china. You can also learn to make pizza here, and Chef Antonio Russo holds cooking classes, including one for pasta that would be incorporated into our meals.
At one of our dinners, sitting at a communal table with other guests, we began with little strips of breaded ombrina fish. The pasta course was pacchero macaroni with a rich seafood ragù atop pureed yellow tomato scented with marjoram and dressed with red lumpfish roe. Then came stuffed tender squid on a sauce of red cabbage, and for dessert local pastries, served with wines from a modestly priced wine list rich in Puglian bottlings: Piccole Bolle Bianco Negroamaro from Duca Carlo Guarini and Fiano Salento from Cantina Schola Sarmenti.
As you’d expect, Americans form a large part of the Palazzo’s clientele, so every employee speaks impeccable English, not least two ebullient managers, Angela and Martina, who are never happier than when you ask them to show you their region via their tour company PATH. .
Owing to its proximity to towns, cities, seashore and historic sites, the Palazzo also has the virtue of being secluded, making it as much a romantic getaway as it is an example of modern Italian hospitality.
PALAZZO DUCALE VENTURI
Minervino di Lecce
+39-0836-818717
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