EXCLUSIVE: San Jose: Mexico City culinary star named to head Copita restaurant in Willow Glen

He’s opened two dozen restaurants in Mexico’s gastronomic capital, notably Litoral and Balmori, been heralded as the “new face” of the country’s culinary world and cooked in Michelin-starred kitchens in Europe. He’s taught at several culinary schools. Won a reality TV chef’s competition. Written a cookbook. Headed a prestigious association of chefs.

And now he’s brought that rich culinary background to the Bay Area.

Azari Cuenca-Maitret, 49, has been named executive chef for the eagerly anticipated Copita Willow Glen, the second cantina from celebrity chef Joanne Weir, who opened the award-winning Copita in Sausalito in 2012. Weir and business partner Michael Mindel, an industry veteran, met Cuenca when they were traveling in Mexico in search of inspiring ideas and a chef for their latest venture.

After moving his family — wife Paola and three children — to San Jose, Cuenca started working with Weir early in January on recipe development as the build-out of the restaurant continues. Officially called Copita Tequileria y Comida, the restaurant will feature multiple dining areas, two kitchens, two bars, two menus and Willow Glen’s first rooftop dining. An August opening is forecast.

We chatted in person recently with Cuenca about what he hopes to bring to a new restaurant in a new country. This is an edited version of our conversation:

Q. You grew up in Mexico City with both Mexican and French heritage. What are some of your earliest food memories?

A. The smell of the toasting chiles to make a mole dish. The characteristic corn aroma transformed into a handmade tortilla. My mom’s Veracruz-style platanos machos (roasted plantains). And freshly made guacamole.

Q. And what were the first dishes that you cooked?

A. The first plates I made were together with my mom, and I remember she was constantly mentioning I had to carefully follow and observe each step of the recipes, so I could create an awesome result. I remember the chipotle meatballs, guacamole, Aztec casserole (my mom’s favorite), enfrijoladas and asada tacos. These plates marked my first steps as a chef.

Q. Did you attend culinary school or come up through the restaurant ranks?

A. I was excited about cooking since elementary school, so I started very young in the restaurant field — 13 years old, to be precise! — and I began building a career from the dishwasher position, while I kept studying. At that time, Mexico didn’t have any chef’s degree at any school, and I wanted to be a professional, so I decided to search for a working opportunity in Europe. That’s when I got a chance to be in San Sebastián, Spain, with chef Joan Mari Arzak, who ended up directing me to finish my studies at Paul Bocuse’s school in France.

Q. How did those experiences influence you?

A. Well, I learned the proper classic bases of each cuisine, with each one’s extraordinary signatures and their perfect techniques at managing their ingredients, which taught me that no real cuisine can be done without a foundation of excellent ingredients.

Q. You were at the top of your game in Mexico City, one of the world’s great food capitals. What about the Copita role here convinced you to leave?

A. OK, the COVID pandemic and Michael Mindel — hahaha! Seriously! The team behind this is a gem, and their passion for restaurants and Willow Glen made me be in love with the project almost right away. On top of it, I get to work with Joanne Weir and her huge passion and fantastic palate.

The pandemic gave me the chance to slow down, spend some long, quality time in the countryside, and changed the order of my priorities. My family and I were ready for a change and to improve our quality of life.

Q. And what appealed to you about the city of San Jose and the Bay Area?

A. I was already a big fan of the beauty of California. San Jose was so tempting right away. I mean, farmers markets all around, best quality and sustainable ingredients available, Mexican culture very present. And Silicon Valley is a thrilling world.

Q. We hear you found an interesting way to convince your children that a move to California would be a good idea.

A. We told them it was so close to Disneyland! And that there was almost no rain!!!

Q. Did you have a couple of signature dishes in Mexico?

A. Definitely. My huauzontles (a dish prepared with an amaranth plant) were so famous that I had author Gabriel Garcia Marquez, who loved them, as a frequent customer. I love making my pescado a la sal, which I made for more than 20 years, and the Aztec casserole, which is like “Mexican lasagna.”

Q. What do you expect to bring to the Copita table?

A. Copita is an authentic Mexican cuisine concept with some unique flourishes, and I’m hoping to bring an even fresher and more sustainable touch, reinforcing the roots and heart of Mexican dishes, where every bite tells you a story about my culture. And, at the same time, surprises you with some tastes you won’t find anywhere else.

Q. Which Bay Area specialties have you now tried for the first time?

A. I love the big variety of fresh greens! The seafood! The crabs and oysters are amazing; San Francisco’s clam chowder. I am a big fan of the rich soups you find all over, particularly Japanese and Thai ones.

Q. Back to your heritage. What are your showcase Spanish and French dishes?

A. My best French dishes, I may say, are the boeuf bourguignon, escargots, steak tartare and bouillabaisse. From my Spanish side, the paella Valenciana and squid ink paella — I love decorating it as a mandala, and they are as visually appealing as they are delicious – and the pescado a la sal.  

Q .You served as Mexico’s pork ambassador, so we have to ask: What will that mean to diners here?

A. The best pastor you’ve ever had!

Details: Copita Tequileria y Comida is under construction in Willow Glen at 1098 Lincoln Ave., San Jose. For a peek at the Sausalito menu, go to www.copitarestaurant.com.