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Doenjang salmon rice bowl and more recipes to try this week

By Brian Gallagher, The New York Times

To me, cooked alliums like shallots, garlic and onions of all sorts are the perfect weeknight ingredient for winter. In terms of flavor, they bring a skein of warmth and a lightly savory base note without necessarily adding heft. Satisfying and hearty, but not too rich.

More important to me, though, is the act of chopping. For many, this can be tedious, but I find it a welcome little interlude between work and dinner. You can chop with as much focus, artistry, satisfaction or ire as the preceding hours might dictate. But, mostly, I just like to zone out a bit — though not enough to lose a fingertip — and run the knife through its paces. Is this mindfulness? Who knows? But these five dishes will give you a chance to feel that out.

1. Doenjang Salmon Rice Bowl

This speedy meal is for seekers of the sweet-salty, known as dan-jjan in Korean. Doenjang, a glorious Korean fermented soybean paste, anchors the sauce with funk and umami. This sauce, balanced with sweet mirin and tangy rice vinegar, both marinates and lacquers salmon, which is quick-roasted. Cutting the fish into cubes allows more surface area for the salmon fat to render quickly, while the centers cook to a medium-rare, melt-in-your-mouth tenderness, a satisfying contrast to the still-crunchy, just-charred onions. This soul-warming breakfast, lunch or dinner tastes best with white rice, kimchi and whatever other accompaniments you might enjoy.

By Eric Kim

Yield: 2 to 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 4 tablespoons doenjang (see tip)
  • 6 tablespoons mirin
  • 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 1 pound salmon fillets (preferably skinless and center-cut), cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
  • 1 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
  • Steamed rice, for serving
  • Kimchi, for serving (optional)

Preparation

1. In a medium bowl, whisk the brown sugar, oil, doenjang, mirin and vinegar until the sugar and doenjang dissolve. Season with salt and pepper. Add the salmon to the marinade and turn with your fingers to evenly coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 10 minutes and up to 8 hours.

2. When ready to cook, heat the oven to 425 degrees. Add the onion slices to a sheet pan or shallow baking dish. Dump the salmon and its marinade over the onion and toss to combine. Arrange the salmon and onion in a single layer.

3. Roast until the doenjang glaze bubbles like hot lava along the edges of the pan and the salmon is opaque but still slightly pink in the center, rotating the pan halfway through, 9 to 12 minutes. Divide the rice then the salmon among bowls and serve with kimchi, if desired.

TIP: You can find doenjang, often labeled “soybean paste,” in Korean or Asian supermarkets and online, either in jars or in plastic rectangular tubs. Funkily pungent and packed with savoriness, doenjang is a magical flavor booster that is sometimes compared to Japanese miso but has a saltier, more assertive kick. Full of fermented sourness and deep Parmesan-like umami, it can enliven all manner of soups, stews and salad dressings with unparalleled brio.

2. Creamy Chickpea Pasta With Spinach and Rosemary

Creamy Chickpea Pasta with Spinach and Rosemary, in New York, Oct. 7, 2019. This is just so tasty and easy, but donÕt skip the lemon squeeze. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. (David Malosh, The New York Times)
Creamy Chickpea Pasta with Spinach and Rosemary, in New York, Oct. 7, 2019. This is just so tasty and easy, but don’t skip the lemon squeeze. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. (David Malosh, The New York Times)

Luxurious and hearty, cheap and easy, this vegetarian pasta uses mostly pantry staples, requiring just a few fresh ingredients, like baby spinach, rosemary and heavy cream. Canned chickpeas form the foundation of the dish: They’re cooked until crisp and caramelized. Half are then saved as a garnish, while the rest are simmered until they break down and thicken the sauce. You can swap out your greens or beans, and if you want to experiment with flavor, raid your spice cabinet: Ground coriander, toasted fennel seeds, coarsely crumbled pink peppercorns or a sprinkle of smoked paprika perk up the dish.

By Alexa Weibel

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

  • Kosher salt
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 (14-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
  • 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary, plus more for garnish
  • 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper, or 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes (optional)
  • Black pepper
  • 1 large shallot, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 1 (6-ounce) bag baby spinach
  • 12 ounces spaghetti or bucatini
  • 1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan
  • Lemon wedges, for serving

Preparation

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high.

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