Berkeley: Peek inside World Pizza Champion Laura Meyer’s first restaurant, opening today

One of the most exciting and highly-anticipated restaurants to hit downtown Berkeley in ages is opening for dinner tonight. Pizzeria da Laura, the debut restaurant from celebrated World Champion pizzaiola Laura Meyer, opens at 5 p.m. with four styles of pizza plus house-made pastas, super-fresh salads and low ABV cocktails.

Yup, it’s a pizza place. And, no, it’s not fancy. But by now we know that pandemic-proof artisanal pizzerias — those with variety, high-quality qualities and a geeky devotion to dough fermentation — could probably outlive an apocalypse in the Bay Area. And this one is particularly special.

Tucked into the art deco building formerly housing Passione Emporio on Shattuck Square, the two-story pizzeria is the long-awaited debut from one of Northern California’s few female pizza chefs and restaurateurs. Meyer spent 17 years honing her craft at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco, eventually running owner Tony Gemignani’s International Pizza School, traveling the competitive pizza circuit and serving as head chef at Capo’s before going out on her own, first with her pop-up, Focaccia da Laura, and now, a pizza joint that offers several styles under one roof.

Last night, we stopped by a packed press preview where pizzerati from Pizzaleah’s Leah Scurto to Gemignani himself nibbled on pies from the open kitchen and sipped on glasses of Italian wine from a women-led wine list. Here’s a taste:

VIBE: Casual and fun, with seating for about 60 downstairs. Mid-century-style chandeliers dangle from the high ceilings and a central bar is flanked by an open kitchen and take-out area — they’re offering slices and whole pies — and a staircase on the right. Upstairs, there are two- and four-top tables offering seating for another 30 or so people, plus a TV for Cal games, of course.

FOOD: Pan-style pizza is the focus here. Meyer showcases her love of dough fermentation via four styles of pie: New York, Sicilian, Detroit and cracker-thin “Grandma.” You choose the style and one of 10 topping combinations. You can also build-your-own. The Chi Town was tops in New York style ($25/$28) because the thin crust allowed the sausage pie’s zingy house-made giardiniera to shine.

By contrast, might opt for the Ray J (mozzarella, tomato, pepperoni, burrata, fermented honey, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano) in a 10- by 14-inch Detroit because the crust has the heft to hold both fresh, gooey cheese and honey. Or, our favorite: The 12- by 18-inch Sicilian because it’s juuuust right. Get it in the La Regina ($35), the pie that won Meyer the World Pizza Championship in Italy in 2013. Topped with tomato, mozzarella, prosciutto, shaved Parmigiano- Reggiano and a flurry of nutty arugula, the flavors are heavenly and the crust is reminiscent of Meyers’ pillow-perfect focaccia.

Rounding out the menu: Three salads ($13-$15), including a chopped salad with white beans and Finocchiona salame; four house-made pastas ($15-$25), like bucatini with fried eggplant and spaghetti spiked with garlic and chili oil; and a selection of appetizers ($9-$22), including an epic charcuterie board and golf-ball sized arancini filled with “Dad’s ragu.”

DRINKS: Master sommelier Morgan Harris curated the by-the-glass wine list ($12-$17), which features Italian varieties from California as well as wines from across Italy. Cocktail consultant Christopher Presutti, most recently the bar director at Saison, rounds out the beverage offerings with a menu of low-proof cocktails ($14 each) starring Italian apéritifs and amaros, like Something’s Gotta Give (house vermouth blend, bitters, orange oil). Beer is coming soon.

DON’T MISS: A dessert in a mug, which is very personal for Meyer, is also coming soon.

DETAILS: Pizzeria da Laura is open from 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays to Sunday, to start, with lunch service and daily hours coming soon. 2049 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley; www.pizzeriadalaura.com