A Louisville Guide Beyond The Kentucky Derby: Where To Stay, Eat, And Drink

Outside of being synonymous with the annual Kentucky Derby—which is being held on May 6 this year—and boasting a rich bourbon heritage, including Brough Brothers Distillery, Kentucky’s first African American-owned distillery, Louisville can run a bit short on descriptors. And that’s because of geography.

Though Kentucky’s largest city is frequently dubbed the “Gateway to the South,” its proximity to the Midwest and the North means it’s been shaped by these parts of America, too. But while some bemoan the city’s lack of a clear-cut identity, it should rather be seen as an asset. Because today, and perhaps more than ever, Louisville reflects its neighbors’ influences in wonderfully diverse and progressive ways, especially when it comes to hospitality, restaurants, and bars.

So whether you’ve got a trip planned to hopefully win big at the 2023 Kentucky Derby or simply want to explore this underrated destination as a first-timer, here’s a handy guide on where to stay, eat, and drink.

Where to Stay

Two historic structures that once housed the Highlands Police Station, Louisville Ballet, and a BellSouth switching station have been thoughtfully reenvisioned as The Bellwether. Merging the charm of a boutique inn with the coziness of a homestay, the 20-room property the Highlands beckons with a 1920s-inspired design (imagine metallic finishes, geometric shapes, and jewel tones), conveniences including microwaves and mini fridges, and stunning one-of-a-kind configurations—the Highland Station suite is adorned with two 1940s murals that were discovered during the renovation and lovingly restored—to suit all kinds of travelers, whether you’re solo or vacationing with family. And because The Bellwether is contactless, come and go as you please without the hassle of keys. (You’ll be texted a code for the smart door locks on the day of your arrival.) Even better? A buzzy new restaurant, Nostalgic, was recently unveiled at the hotel.

Where to Eat

One of the most anticipated Louisville restaurant openings the year, The House of Marigold is a new daytime eatery by partners in work and life Kris and Adrienne Cole. The interiors are drenched in pastels and uplifting messages, thanks to the creative efforts of Maddox & Rose Marketplace, and the kitchen sources as many ingredients as possible from local purveyors including Berry Beef, Quills Coffee, and Blue Dog Bakery. As for the menu, it’s familiar and crowd-pleasing with plenty of unexpected twists. Case in point? The best-selling Build Your Own Deviled Eggs arrive in a tray filled with bacon, green tomato chow chow, cheddar cheese, and everything crumbs so you can assemble your perfect bite.

From Cat MacDowell, the owner of Naive, another city hot spot, comes Nostalgic. Located at The Bellwether, the aptly named restaurant sends out fancified riffs of childhood favorites, from pepperoni-stuffed hot pockets with an herbaceous ranch dressing to sauce gribiche-topped patty melts, in a posh space accented with an emerald green-tiled bar, cozy alcove booths, and cheeky artwork. Another solid special occasion spot is Hotel Distil’s Repeal Oak Fired Steakhouse, where a roaring oak-fired grill lends dishes like the Oak-Fired Heirloom Carrots and Sakura Farms’ Tomahawk Ribeye a mild smoky flavor. Save room for Jefferson’s Bourbon Bread Pudding, an indulgent sweet finish of buttery brioche, salted caramel sauce, and vanilla ice cream presented in a hot skillet.

Seeking something quick and casual? The Village Market Food Hall in Paristown has you covered with six locally-owned stalls selling affordable eats such as Sarap Filipino Eatery’s crispy beef lumpia, Ramble’s Korean fried chicken sandwiches, and Jeff’s Donuts’ puffy apple fritters. Nearby, Logan Street Market offers up a similiar experience with over 35 independent vendors ranging from Wild Hops Brewery and Bar to Foko, which cooks up hearty Mexican bites like the popular “Wake Up Burrito” stuffed with eggs, Oaxaca cheese, avocado, and pinto beans.

Where to Drink

While over 300 bourbons on hand and an enticing cocktail list—the Get Buttered Old Fashioned is especially drinkable—North of Bourbon is one of Louisville’s top spots for happy hour and to knock back a few. Thankfully, the food is no slouch, either. Chef Lawrence Weeks turns out substantial plates heavy on Creole, Cajun, and Southern influences (think shrimp yakamein, duck gumbo, and peppered catfish nuggets), all of which pair perfectly with liquor. (Request to be seated in one of the bourbon barrel booths for even more memorable experience.)

You’re familar with the farm-to-table concept when it comes to dining, but what about drinking? That’s the mindset Epiphany embodies with its curated libations, many of which feature ingredients sourced from area farms. (To wit, the Farmer’s Tan features the brine of pickled local green cherry tomatoes, and a whole one as a garnish.) And in case you haven’t heard, Louisville is also home to one of America’s best drag brunch scenes, with CC’s Kitchen, The Hub Louisville, and Le Moo topping the list with rousing live entertainment, belly-busting food, eye-opening cocktails, and welcoming settings where everyone can let loose and be themselves.