Taste-Off: The best tater tots in supermarket freezer cases — and the ones to avoid

Warning: There’s absolutely nothing healthy or nutritionally redeeming about “tater tots.” They’re straight up junk food, loaded with fat and salt. But they’re also crispy, salty and simply irresistible — no matter what your age.

Ore-Ida’s Tater Tots were invented in Oregon in 1953 as a way to use up potato scraps. The tots are essentially shredded potatoes mixed with seasonings, oil and starch before being shaped into tiny cylinders and fried. The result is a pile of crunchy potato croquettes loved all over the world.

Besides their appeal as a crispy snack or side, tots are a fantastic shortcut ingredient in an egg scramble, a cheesy casserole or a diner-style skillet dinner. But the best part about them is that you simply can’t mess them up. Whether you bake them too long or not long enough or serve them hot or at room temperature, they’re just plain tasty.

While Ore-Ida retains the greatest share of the Tater Tot market — and the trademark for that name — multiple brands now crowd freezer cases. Determined to find the top tots, we crunched through the options. Great tater tots are minimally greasy and have just enough salt to satisfy. Bad ones taste like grease or are so overpowered by garlic, onion or herbs that they no longer even taste like potatoes.

Here’s the scoop on the top-tasting tots and the disappointing tater-nots. Nutrition info refers to 3 ounces or about 10 tots.

Lamb Weston Grown In Idaho Super Crispy Tots

These crispy bites are deliciously addictive. They are unapologetically salty — and taste very much like potato chips. 180 calories, 9 g fat, 360 mg sodium, 2 g protein. $5.99 28 ounces at Raley’s. (4 stars)

Cascadian Farm Organic Spud Puppies

Clean potato flavor and a judicious amount of salt make these a great choice. Note that despite the number of grams of fat listed on the package, these are not greasy. 170 calories, 10 g fat, 290 mg sodium, 2 g protein. $5.78 for 16 ounces at Raley’s. (3½ stars)

365 Whole Foods Puffs

Straight from the bag, these white cylinders do not look promising, but with enough oven time, they turn fairly brown and crispy. The flavor is clean, but they’re slightly dry. 160 calories, 7 g fat, 330 mg sodium, 2 g protein. $4.49 for 32 ounces. (3 stars)

First Street Tater Treats

This brand nails the texture and toast-factor, but the serious hit of onion powder might not please purists. 130 calories, 7 g fat, 360 mg sodium, 1 g protein. $3.49 for 32 ounces at Smart & Final. (2½ stars)