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“The recent announcement of a new designer for Air New Zealand uniforms seems to represent a missed opportunity for a more collaborative approach to work with Maori designers,” says designer and academic Dr Bobby Campbell Luke, who founded the Campbell Luke label.
“This could have been an opportunity to engage with our cultural heritage and evolve its branding based on its cultural richness,” says Luke, who is a fan of Wickstead’s work. “This missed opportunity becomes all the more conspicuous against the backdrop of the current climate in New Zealand’s fashion industry, where there is a growing emphasis on cultural awareness and inclusivity.”
“It’s clear that we haven’t fully tapped into the potential of those who already contribute to the New Zealand fashion industry, especially the collective voices of Maori designers.”
Bobby Campbell Luke and Dominic Blake take their bows on the runway during the Campbell Luke show at New Zealand Fashion Week.Credit: Getty
Part of the selection process was a demonstration of Te ao Māori, the respect and acknowledgement of Maori customs and protocols.
“My critique of this process centres around the question of how one can truly comprehend Te Ao Māori when they are not Maori themselves,” Luke says.
Wickstead says that Maori people will be acknowledged in her design.
“Without saying too much it will be a huge tribute to Maori culture,” Wickstead says. “There will be a lot of meaning behind small details.”
“Incorporating Maori culture is one of the biggest priorities. I can’t tell you too much. There is a huge element of storytelling in the uniforms. Everyone wearing the uniform will feel extremely proud. They will play a big part in being a tribute to Maori culture.”
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“It’s almost like wearing your heart on your sleeve. There’s a real authenticity to it. For me storytelling is at the heart of this passion project.”
So, have Maori leaders been involved in that storytelling?
“We will unveil that soon,” Wickstead says. “I wish I could say more.”
Along with acknowledging New Zealand culture, Air New Zealand chief customer and sales officer Leanne Geraghty, says that safety and comfort were key considerations in the selection process.
“Ultimately, Emilia stood out as the perfect partner. Her ability to create modern yet timeless pieces perfectly fits with what we were looking for in a design partner – someone who could create a uniform that our people can wear with pride now and into the future.”
“The uniform is our second most recognisable asset behind the koru on our aircraft. It’s incredibly important. It’s the first visual representation for visitors coming to New Zealand.”
Damien Woolnough travelled to Auckland as a guest of Air New Zealand.
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