Taste-Off: The best frozen egg rolls — and the fried cylinders to avoid

Few people can say “no” to an egg roll. It’s the quintessential appetizer — a satisfying package of savory deliciousness tucked inside a crispy wrapper. Dunk it in sweet-and-sour sauce, and it’s perfection.

Egg rolls have roots in several cultures and countries, including Vietnam, the Philippines and Korea, but for this taste-off among frozen supermarket brands, we tasted the Chinese-American version, stuffed with vegetables or chicken, wrapped in a hearty, wheat-based dough and fried until golden.

Despite the name, egg rolls have nothing to do with eggs, per se. Like pasta, some wrappers contain egg in their dough, but many do not.

Differences between frozen supermarket egg rolls could not be more vast. Sizes are all over the map. Some egg rolls are filled with practically pureed vegetables or chicken. Others are stuffed with shreds and chunks. And still others have so little filling, it’s hard to decipher the contents.

Great egg rolls are crispy, with somewhat delicate skins that crackle when you bite into them. Inside is a melange of tender, perfectly seasoned ingredients with as much flavor as a plate of stellar Chinese food. Bad ones have bland, odd-flavored fillings or problematic wrappers that are too thick, too oily or nearly too tough to chew.

Here are details on egg rolls to please any crowd — and the fried cylinders that no amount of sauce can save. Nutrition info refers to 85 grams, the size of one large egg roll.

Chung’s Vegetable Egg Rolls

A thin, crispy wrapper and big chunks of well-seasoned chicken make this the best of the lineup. The flavors are fresh and utterly delicious. Note that the nutrition info on these includes the sauce, which packs an impressive wallop of ginger. 170 calories, 5 g fat, 480 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 5 g protein. $4.49 for 12 ounces, 4 pieces at Raley’s. (4 stars)

P.F. Chang’s Vegetable Egg Rolls

These dinky, single-bite rolls have a delightfully crisp wrapper and impressive layers of umami flavor, but the filling is too salty. The chicken variety is tasty too, but also over-salted. 128 calories, 3 g fat, 708 mg sodium, 7 g sugar, 2 g protein. $3.99 for 8.8 ounces at Target. (3 stars)

365 Whole Foods Vegetable Egg Rolls

Vegetable fans may enjoy these rolls, with their generous filling of lightly seasoned, roughly-cut mixed vegetables. Sadly, the exterior is too dry, rendering them slightly tough. 180 calories, 6 g fat, 250 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 5 g protein. $3.69 for 12 ounces, 4 pieces. (2½ stars)

Tai Pei Chicken Egg Rolls

These doughy rolls have so little filling, they taste like fried bread. Worse, the inside of the bread is slimy due to the tiny finger of pureed chicken that slides out the bottom at first bite. 180 calories, 8 g fat, 455 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 5 g protein. $6.49 for 24.5 ounces, 8 pieces at Smart & Final. (1½ stars)

Minh Chicken Egg Rolls

Feel Good Foods

These rolls are so far off the mark: The crust is so hard, it’s difficult to chew. The flavor is beyond bland. And no matter how long they’re cooked, they turn neither crispy nor brown. 110 calories, 2.5 g fat, 360 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 5 g protein. $10.49 for 9 ounces, 3 pieces at Whole Foods. (½ a star)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.