Designers turn their back on the beach at Australian Fashion Week

Australian Fashion Week starts on Monday with a ripple rather than a splash, with only one brand focused on swimsuits committing to a solo show on the official schedule.

Luxury swimwear label Bondi Born is left to champion Australia’s unofficial coastal uniform of one-pieces and bikinis in a category once crowded with plunging necklines and high-cuts from Zimmermann, Tigerlily, Matteau and Aqua Blu.

“I do think international buyers and shoppers still see Australians as experts in swimwear and summer,” says Dale McCarthy, founder of Bondi Born, which is showing its Resort 2024 collection at the Coal Loader Centre for Sustainability on Sydney Harbour on Monday. “The difference is that many labels now only dabble in swimwear because you make more money selling dresses than swimsuits. You always need a new dress.

“If you only dabble in swimwear you don’t become an expert and evolve your product. For us, swimwear has maintained its strength, and we are experts in it.”

Having seen online sales in the US overtake Australia in the past year, along with signing a deal to appear in 11 Neiman Marcus stores, McCarthy has faith in the luxury swimsuit customer. The label’s clothing line does hedge bets but currently accounts for only 20 per cent of online sales.

“We launched in 2015 and now have the customer who is willing to spend more for a comfortable and confident fit in a swimsuit made using a technical fabric, but she’s older than most people think, with our core customer sitting at around 35 years old,” McCarthy says.

Younger customers continue to be attracted to affordable surfwear brands. Bondi Born’s one-pieces start at $275 while surfwear giant Rip Curl’s one-piece swimsuits begin at a more accessible $89.99. Rather than focus on the runway, Rip Curl is strengthening its relationships with female surfers and influencers.

“We market through all the socials, digital marketing, influencers and Rip Curl athletes,” says Grace Gorman, head of women’s apparel for Rip Curl. Owned by New Zealand’s KMD Brands, Rip Curl in March reported sales growth of 18.8 per cent to $306.4 million across all of its categories as customers returned to travel.